Shoe Production Method

A quality welted shoe is the hallmark of sophistication. There are several ways to make a welted shoe. Most small to medium-sized workshops focus on one or two methods. With the right workman, tools, machinery, materials and knowledge the shoes they create will be to a very high-standard.

Fugashin Shoemakers make Goodyear Welt and Stitchdown Constructed shoes and boots (respectively) exceedingly well. The information in this guide explains how our shoes are made and why they are a worthwhile investment. 

The Shoemaking Process Explained

They say it takes a village to raise a child. The same can be said for producing just one welted shoe. For each TG Collection shoe there is about 130 individual steps, involving craftsmen and women with skills in cutting, sewing, trimming and a number of other discrete activities. The steps below provide you with a broad understanding of what is involved in making your shoes.

The Goodyear Welted Method

All Thomas George by Fugashin shoes are constructed using the Goodyear Welt construction method. It is considered by many to be the 'Gold Standard' of shoemaking and is employed by many of the world's top shoemakers. Goodyear Welted construction is known for its strength, durability and repair qualities, although it is time-consuming and requires highly skilled craftsmen. 

The upper leather, leather lining and the (leather) welt are stitched to the ribbing, which has already been attached to the insole. The welt will then be stitched to the leather sole. This final stitch can be removed and the sole can be replaced without damaging the shoe. 

Goodyear Welted

 The Stitchdown Construction Method

All Thomas George by Fugashin service boots are constructed using the Stitchdown Construction Method. Stitchdown (or Veldtschoen) construction is a variation of the Goodyear Welted Construction method; however, the leather upper is turned out and stitched above the welt rather than the leather upper being wrapped underneath and stitched beneath the welt. The result is a very sturdy service boot with excellent water-proofing qualities. Like its Goodyear Welt cousin, these boots will be very durable and repairable, but also somewhat more flexible with less break-in period required.  

Stitchdown Construction Method Thomas George Collection

Advantages Of Thomas George Collection Footwear

    • Our welted shoes and boots can last you for years. Because a quality cobbler can remove the final stitching, the sole and heel can be replaced without it affecting the structure of the shoe. 
    • Our shoes and boots are extremely durable. Due to their build quality, only the kilometres you clock up in wear and walk will eventually require you to re-sole them. There is also quite a bit of material between your feet and the floor, giving them good water-proofing qualities. 
    • Our shoes and boots get more comfortable with every wear. While there is often a break-in period, when the leather upper softens and the cork filler moulds to the contours of your foot, you'll be gliding around the office like an extra in Swan Lake.
    • Our shoes and boots will save you money over time. Given their durability, longevity and comfort, the cost-per-wear over their life time will be negligible compared to their cheaper 'glued' cousins that need replacing often.
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